What's the deal with peels?

This past week I have spent a lot of time talking to clients about the benefits of chemical peels, and kind of breaking down the negative stigma and misconceptions about them.   I admit that there was a time, when I myself was a little wary of chemical peels---until I had a light chemical peel myself and discovered how amazing they are.  I think the word "Chemical" and the word "Peel" are frankly, not very enticing.  Which is a shame, because the benefits of peels are multifold: reduction of fine lines, wrinkles, acne, uneven skin texture, light scarring, hyperpigmentation and an increase in tone, glow and radiance.  If we referred to them as: "Skin Radiance & Glow inducing Exfoliators" they might just be a little more popular!

I happen to be a big fan of peels, and really appreciate their benefits.  I thought I would share with you some things I have learned about chemical peels, and dispel some common myths in the process.

#1 The purpose of peels:  As we get older our skin cell turn over slows down. We no longer shed, dead skin at the rate we used too.  In order to kick-start that process, exfoliation is necessary. For more dramatic results we can have chemical exfoliants (peels) applied by a licensed medical professional.  A chemical exfoliant or peel works by tricking the skin into shedding dead, dry, damaged skin and stimulates the growth of collagen, and elastin, (essentially, new skin).  After the age of 35 it is recommended to chemically exfoliate (peel) 3x a year or monthly, depending on your desired results and skin concerns.


#2 Not all chemical peels are created equal: Just because Samantha nearly burned her face off, in that Sex & City episode, doesn't mean you will!  There are actually 3 levels of peels: light, medium-depth and deep.  The intensity of the peel you decide to do should be agreed upon by you and your licensed medical professional, factoring in your medical history, allergies, skin sensitivity, desired outcome, and available downtime.  There is a vast of array of peels to choose from, some with absolutely no down time, and some will have you peeling/scaling for over a week. It's important to communicate your expectations, and concerns, and your licensed medical provider will select a peel that is appropriate for you.


#3 Chemical Peels do not hurt: As I mentioned before, there is a wide array of peels to choose from, from the very light to more intense.  It is all about what your skin can handle and how aggressive your approach is.  For example, the lightest peel will barely tingle at all. Your skin will be only mildly uncomfortable for under 5 minutes.  A slightly more intense peel would be the Vitalize by Skin Medica which feels like a mildly tingly/burning sensation for only 5-10 minutes.  The Rejuvenize Peel by Skin Medica is slightly more intense tingle/burn/pin-prick sensation but not bad at all and only lasts for 5-10 minutes max. Other peels administered by an Aesthetician such as a Glycolic, Salicylic, or a Jessner peel will all be in the in the light to medium depth range depending on the percentage of acid and will be mildy uncomfortable, tingly/burning pin-prick sensation which lasts under 10 minutes.

#4 Side Effects will vary: How your skin will react is difficult to predict with 100% certainty; skin reactions are very individual.  If you have very sensitive skin your skin might become more red, or itchy and might peel more than someone else who has thicker, more resilient skin.  In general, you can expect your skin to be more sensitive, drier, and feel like a sunburn from 2 days-or up to a week depending on the depth of your peel. The amount of peeling will also vary: you might peel/scale/shed skin for zero days, or just over a week.  In general, most people (myself included!) feel that the unflattering peeling downtime for just a few days, is a very small price to pay for younger-looking, smoother, more radiant, glowing skin!